Eesti Saabiklubi foorum

No ma mõtlengi seda, et vabalthingaval on kõik ülimalt tähtis. Turbokal asi nii täpne ei pea olema, kuigi võiks. Jäin siin jänni keevitamisega, ei pääsenud MIG käpaga ligi. Viisin mujale keevitama. Hetkel on see Budget projekt ja erilist tähelepanu ma nendele ühenduskohtadele ei pööra. Pigem tegin kolde selle jaoks, et turbo külge saaks. Nüüd vaja otsida veel wastegate, pihustid ja mis iganes asju veel.

Sain keevitusest tagasi. Viskasin külge ka korra

What kind of coating have you used on your manifold? Vigge? Hook? Someone?:drive:

Wrap it..

Alkuperäinen postittaja Cyber
Wrap it..

If the header is not from stainless, do absolute not wrap it!

Alkuperäinen postittaja SAABNINETHOUSAND

What kind of coating have you used on your manifold? Vigge? Hook? Someone?:drive:

black satin has been used and holds plenty.
My current manifold was made in 2005 and at the beginning of this year I had it out for EWG modification and only small surface rust present
http://www.stcf.net/viggen/portti/images/DSC_3145.JPG
Car is in daily use both winter and summer.
looked like this after 2 years use
http://www.stcf.net/viggen/Asennus/images/DSC_2736.JPG

ok, do not wrap it.. ... but what happens if you wrap ordinary steel header? too much heat for it? starts cracking?

EDIT: and how do you plan tubing to IC, mr S9K?? It kind of points to wrong direction??

Alkuperäinen postittaja Cyber
ok, do not wrap it.. ... but what happens if you wrap ordinary steel header? too much heat for it? starts cracking?

Based on a few "trials" if you wrap a tube header made from mild steel it will corrode and eventually crack much faster even if coated likewise as a non wraped header. I believe the issue has more to due with moisture than heat.

Hea kohe vaadata kuidas asi sujub

Jätka samas vaimus

Edit:Kas sa turbo külmapoole jätadgi nii või keerad ikka allapoole nii nagu originaalis???

What about ceramic coating?

These guys can help you out --> http://www.otter-ag.ee/index.html

I have heard that price for such coating is quite reasonable (same level as tape-wraping).

Result...

The IC plumbing is going in the original place, just that it has to pass the manifold which is HOT, but that should not be a problem. I'm going to make a heat shield/screen of some sort. The compressor outlet does'nt have to point downwards.

We had a VW Golf Mk1 GT-i. We made custom headers to it and wraped them. They got very fast very rusty. So theres really a point. My first thought was also to wrap'em.

Funny to mentione it, but I found some sponsors. My dear beloved friends. They are also curiously waiting for me to start the "beast" and thought, that they have more money than me and wan't to buy me the wastegate.

Hahahahhaaaa, fantastic guys my friends. This is not a wastegate, it's an EGR.:P:P

About coating. I recommended VHT Flameproof Coatings:

http://www.caswellplating.com/vht/vht_high.htm

Specially "Flat Black" product code SP-102.

Some experience about red color is not so good. Manifold will get rostly much more faster than eg. blackone by some reason..
Vigge, me and japso (plus others) etc are using that sp-102.

Quick (unoffical) instructions of use.
1) paint it.
2) let engine run few minutes idle to get is "warm".
3) let is go cool 30min+..
4) let engine run hot 10min+..
Done.

They have quite the same instructions on their website:
On the Vehicle:
Run at idle for 10 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run at idle for 20 minutes, then cool for 20 minutes. Run under normal operating conditions for 30 minutes.
Finish is not chemical resistant until cured.

But a bit different for "off the vehicle"
Off the Vehicle:
Bake at 250F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Bake at 400F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Bake at 600F for 30 minutes, then let cool for 30 minutes. Caution: Do not exceed the heat tolerance of least heat tolerant part. Finish is not chemical resistant until cured.

Where did you get it, Hook? Ordered from US? Or from England (they have somekind of branch there...)?

Our welding wizard have bough it from somewhere. I can ask..

..But i think that you can find those from http://www.usparts.ee/
;)

Update to the 38mm vs. 42mm header comparision.

Last weekend I popped in Hook's ex. 42mm in my car
http://www.stcf.net/viggen/Holset/asennus/index.html
among with few other modifications.

In terms of spool the larger displacement 2.3 vs. 2.0 favors me, but both the bigger turbine housing #16 vs. #14 and faster cams which I have but he does not favors him. So lets add my spool curve into the same graph among with a few runs of mine with the previous GT3071 set-up and we get this
http://www.stcf.net/viggen/holsut_vs1.gif
Curves reading from left to right are (at 200kPa level)

1) Red, 2.0 38mm header 40super #14 housing (mild cams)
2) Pink, my ex 42mm header gt3071 ar.86
3) Dark blue, my current 42mm header 40super #16 housing, baseboost
4) Orange, my current 42mm header 40super #16 housing, current boost
5) Yellow and another 2.0saab 42mm header 40super #14 (orig cams)
6) Same as 5)
7) blue, same as 1) but with 42mm header

Still running with modest tune (1.5bar boost), but lfeel good and produces around 500bhp@7000rpms

Here is a short video of a few test runs
in 3rd gear, in 1st wot from ~100km/h and in 2nd from 110km/h
http://www.stcf.net/viggen/testing.wmv
seems though that the "acustics" of the car was too much for the mobile phone mic to handle

Measeured go 8.7s 100-200 on baseboost (1.3bar)
8.3s 100-200 with modest tune (1.5bar)

Eemaldasin oma esialgse kollektori. Hakkan tegema uut, seekord silmas pidades võimalikult lühikesi torusi, divided inlet, turbo asukoht kapoti all ja loomulikult kvaliteet. Mootori poolse flantsi saab vana ära kasutada, turbo poolne tuleb teha uus, vanal pole divided inleti. Lisaks keeran turbo teistpidi, ehk siis kuumkoda juhi pool. Nii saan teha ka parema downpipe. Eelnevalt peaks nüüd õhuvõtu toru ja jahutusventilaatori muretsema, et mitte pärast pange astuda.